![]() See the size chart below to find the correct ASR Mount for your silencer. It’s also compatible with Hybrid 46, Harvester Series, Octane Series, and Omega K Series. The ASR mounting system comes standard with the Omega 300, Chimera 300, Hybrid 46M, Omega 36M and Saker ASR series. Each ASR muzzle brake comes with a shim set and rocksett for easy application. 370 hole, so I was wondering if I needed to order a specific harvester bigbore brake to go with my harvester bigbore asr. The 3-port design effectively reduces felt recoil and muzzle climb. Now I didn't check the other holes, but that got me curious what the difference between the 7.62 asr brake and the harvester bigbore asr brake was if anything besides part number. It offers quick and easy one-hand-on, one-hand-off attachment and detachment. FWIW, most suppressors add to muzzle velocity what would occur with a 1" to 2" longer barrel.This 3-port muzzle brake is compatible with all SilencerCo ASR Mounts and with multiple thread and caliber options, you can shoot suppressed for any demand. But I recommend your sticking to one setup for consistency in recoil impulse, Point Of Impact, and muzzle velocity. Ultimately your brake/can preference is up to you. If so, I suspect the longer barrel may be more susceptible to POI shift downwards. Who knows what the next barrel will do - I have a 26" blank as a replacement, and I may keep barrel #2 at 26" for additional muzzle velocity. This 23" barrel may be approaching end of life. My 308 bolt action sees about 1 click down shift for both can and brake, using the same direct thread devices. Due to the larger change between muzzle devices, I only shoot a can on this barrel. ![]() With barrel #2 I see about 2 clicks down for the brake and either 6 or 7 down with the can. Even though it's the same barrel size and contour as the first. With a can, the POI shift was about 2 clicks down, one click right. If they don't occur - great! IIRC my first 6.5 barrel had less than a click shift between bare muzzle and brake. The important thing is having a solid, repeatable mount so accuracy isn't compromised.Įxpect POI shifts from brakes and cans. I have it with my 223/300 AR-15, for a Surefire can. So far I've been willing to put up with a little more recoil, over a longer pulse.Ī quick detach can system is nice. But the can is just more pleasant to shoot - less noise and blast. These are good things in PRS-type competition. It cuts recoil faster and more effectively than a can. The brake is an APA with a timing/tightening collar, therefore it's no big deal taking it on and off at will. Do notice any appreciable POI shift when you attached your suppressor on to your barrels that have the semi-permanent muzzle devices attached?įor awhile I switched between brake and suppressor on my 6.5 creedmoor competition rifle. Thanks for the insight Sigfreund.I guess my concern was the combined weight of the muzzle break and the Silencerco Harvester Big Bore Suppressor cause POI shift. I don’t use the suppressor too much, but when I do, it’s relatively quick and easy to attach or switch among the different rifles. I consider the system to be about ideal for my purposes. The muzzle devices are timed and semipermanently attached with thread locker and peel washers, but the obvious difference is that the can is threaded and must be screwed on rather than using a QD mount. I have either a brake or a flash hider on five separate hosts: two Sako TRG-22 rifles (6.5 Creedmoor and 308 Winchester), two Tikka T3 rifles (223 Remington and 308 Winchester), and a T/C Contender (300 Blackout). Mine is a TBAC 30P-1 suppressor that was modified to work with the company’s line of brakes and flash hiders. If I understand your question correctly, I have a similar setup. What other considerations might there be? What am I missing? The question for the forum is whether this approach would yield the desired results. The goal would be to achieve more predictable consistency in shooting the rifle with just a muzzle brake or with the rifle suppressed and avoiding introducing variability with cycle of installation/removal of the Tikka supplied muzzle brake. The objective would be to have a more “permanently” installed muzzle brake which allows me the ability to quickly install my suppressor if I choose and not hassle with re-installation of a muzzle brake when I detach my suppressor. I am considering installing a muzzle brake that will allow me take advantage of the ASR Quick Attach/Detach mount I can install for my Silencerco Harvester Big Bore (aka Harvester 338) Suppressor in lieu of a direct thread end cap. To shoot suppressed, I must remove the muzzle brake and thread on my suppressor. With the rifle as shipped, if I want to install the muzzle brake, I need to thread it on, time it, and set it in with a screw. The barrel is threaded and comes with both a thread protector as well as a muzzle brake. I just bought a Tikka T3x TAC A1 24” in 6.5 Creedmoor.
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